Highpoint #42: New Mexico

The Highest Point in New Mexico!

The highest point in New Mexico is the summit of Wheeler Peak, a 13,161’ mountain located in the Taos ski valley.  It is not one of ski runs, but it is conveniently close to two of the trails leading out of the ski resort.  

I had occasion to try my hand at the mountain during my cross country road trip two winters ago where I picked up most of the southern highpoints.  I took the Bull of the Woods trail (the recommended way in the winter) and snowshoed my way up to the Bull of the Woods pasture.  It was 2 miles of beautiful trail that was well-packed from regular snowmobile use.  Unfortunately for me, from the pasture onward, there was only fresh trail.  A recent blizzard that just passed through the area meant post-holing in waist-deep and at times shoulder-deep snow, not to mention navigating cornices all along the summit ridge.  It became clear very quickly that I was not going to be able to negotiate 5.5 miles of this type of terrain one-way to gain the summit in the course of a short winter day.  I had to bail on the effort, enjoy the good snowshoeing, and vow to come back another day.  Luckily, another day arrived!

Indeed, arriving in the Taos ski valley this time in early fall meant that I would be climbing under an entirely different set of circumstances.  There would not be a single snowflake in sight, and either trail to the summit would be negotiable from start to finish with nary a hindrance.  Being a sucker for an alpine start, I arrived in the hiker lot behind the Bavarian restaurant after midnight and tucked in for the night with the hope of hitting the Williams Lake trail at the break of dawn.  

The Williams Lake trail is avalanche prone in the winter making it pretty much a no-go during the season, save for the AIARE savvy.  Any other time of the year though, it is the shortest way to the summit by quite a bit of distance, 6.2 miles instead of 15 miles roundtrip.  It is also the trail of choice for the climber who has to catch a flight afterwards several hundred miles away.  I never seem to have a lot time to do this stuff. 

Waking up to my alarm, I prepared my daypack and set off.  Passing by the kiosk at the trailhead I saw the sign that said “No Overnight Camping Allowed in Hiker Parking”.  Yikes!  I totally did not see that sign in the dark of night.  Luckily I passed through unscathed.  

Kiosk in the Hiker's Parking Lot

I ventured on past the kiosk, uncertain of how this trail was going to unfold.  Fortunately, the trail could not have been better marked.  There were quite a few “Williams Lake Trail” signs dutifully pointing the way to the proper trailhead.  

You Really Can't Get Lost on this Hike

For a bit of time, I just followed a dirt road that wound its way for a bit of distance through the remainder of the ski resort, before I arrived at the trailhead.  

The Official Trailhead

The trail properly was surprisingly gentle.  It was the most pristine mountain trail that I have ever seen.  It was as though nearly every rock was taken out.  It was a trail runner’s dream.  I was dumbfounded by the lack of difficulty.  I was able to lope along with ease.  

Trail Split

After nearly two miles of this, I saw a sign for the trail split.  Several years ago, one would continue along to Williams Lake and proceed to scramble up a very long scree slope to the summit.  However, in recent years a trail was built that switchbacks its way to the summit obviating the need for scrambling skills altogether.  Indeed, I made a left onto the “Wheeler Summit” trail, and I found the conditions just as easy as they were before, if not easier!  

Wheeler Peak Trail -- Notice How Smooth It Is!

I soon made my way around to a prominent hillside and gently gained elevation with each rising pass.  For hiking, this as good as it gets:  easy effort in exchange for amazing views all around.  

Much of the Trail Looks Like This

Summit Coming into View Before Clouds Lifted

One hillside gave way to another, and the trail meandered making its way around to an avalanche chute which was notable because it was the only place along the trail that was filled with rocks.  At this point, the real elevation gain began.  Mind you, it was still just one switchback after the other, but the steepness became more pronounced.  

Almost at the Summit Ridge

Very soon though, I found myself deposited on the summit ridge before a large rock cairn.  Making a right, I only needed to follow the ridge a short distance to the summit.  This was quite a bit of fun!  Up and over a false summit, I continued along the ridge as it picked up a just a little more in the way of elevation, and before I knew it, I was on the top of Wheeler Peak!  

False Summit

True Summit Lies Ahead

I made my way over first to the summit monument.  It is a curious creation really.  There is a monolith of mortared stone adorned on top with a summit plaque recognizing the spot as the highest point in New Mexico.  The writing on the plaque goes on to give some background on the “Wheeler” of Wheeler Peak for whom the mountain is named.  Inserted in the middle of this structure is a metal tube that juts out prominently giving the structure the overall look of a cannon.  

Summit Monument

The metal tube doubles as a summit register.  Indeed, after some considerable unwinding of the exterior cap, I found the tube jam-packed with summit logs.  It was really ridiculous.  All of the notebooks were filled with entries extending more than a year into the past.  In addition to the notebooks, loose leaf paper was added to the mix containing yet more entries.  I was resigned to make an entry on said paper.  Whoever maintains the site needs take possession of all of these old notebooks and replace them with a couple of new ones.  The time has come.  

The Messiest Summit Register Yet!

Just beyond the summit register, there was a large windbreak.  I climbed to the top of it and enjoyed the view.  The narrow ridge drops off steeply on either side, and beyond, in the distance, there are quite a number of peaks to behold.  The view is dramatic and especially engaging.  With no clouds and little to no wind, the conditions were perfect to hang out for a while and just enjoy it.  

View from the Top!

And to be complete, along the windbreak I found a USGS “Reference Mark” affixed to one of the stones.  It was the only such marker that I was able to locate along the summit area.  I took this to be the true summit and did the usual vanity shot thing.

USGS Reference Mark for Wheeler Peak

Vanity Shot with USGS Marker

After finishing all of these summit rituals, I made my way down the mountain.  This had to have been the easiest descent ever for me.  Nonetheless, I tried to lower my throttle so to speak so that I might still enjoy all of the gorgeous views.  It also helped that I could say “good morning” to all of the other hikers on the way up the mountain.  Some asked for summit details or simply inquired as to how early I had left to be already on my return.  I was impressed by just how many people were on their way up the mountain.  I easily passed dozens of people.  Not to be out done though, I even saw a cougar!  There was a warning sign about cougars at the kiosk in the hiker’s parking lot, but even then I would not have expected to see one with all of the people on the trail.  Sure enough though, I saw the cougar just beyond one of the switchbacks in the off-trail area making his way to higher ground.  We made eye contact, but I was not quick enough to take a photo.  Darn!  I guess that warning is one to take seriously.  

I managed to return to my car by 11am, an hour earlier than I was expecting, giving me a bit of a cushion in my long journey home.  Not bad at all.

Overall, I would rate this as an exceptional hike that is surprisingly accessible to just about anyone with a marginal level of fitness.  That is remarkable, really.  It is very rare that a high-altitude mountain can be so accessible, and the views are wonderful all around.  This is a good place to bring the whole family along.

      

    

Highpoint #41: Arizona

The Highest Point in Arizona!

I was very fortunate to put together not one, but two big highpointing trips this summer covering much of the upper Midwest as well as some of the western states.  I had fully taken advantage of my window of good weather, and I just assumed that would be the end of my adventures until next summer.  However, work got in the way, as it usually does, but this time in a good way.  I would have to fly to Tucson to give a couple of presentations.  Arizona, you say?  That sounds wonderful!  I envisioned the highpointing opportunities immediately…

Of course, Tucson is located in the wrong side of the state for my purposes.  Indeed, the highest point in Arizona is Humphrey’s Peak located next to a ski resort (who knew there was skiing in Arizona?) just outside of Flagstaff.  It is a good 4-hour drive away.  Luckily, I had a great deal of practice driving to many of the other highpoints in the country, so 4 hours distance might as well be down the street as far as I am concerned.  This was going to be easy.  So the trip was set.   

Once I was in Arizona, I thought about the practicalities of the climb.  To optimize my chances, I decided to drive up to Flagstaff at night and settle into the hiker’s parking lot intending for an early morning start.  Doing just that, I was surprised there was an RV already parked there when I arrived.  Nonetheless, I parked some distance away, reclined the seat, and awaited the break of dawn.  My sleep was interrupted much later in the night though by a couple of visitors.  Apparently the hiker’s lot is also a forward operating base for hunters as well.  There was a lot of orange and a lot of noise, but they eventually left.  With most of the night over by this point, I started stirring to prepare my daypack.  The hike was going to be pretty straightforward.  To the top and back, it is 9.6 miles roundtrip, and the path is largely unencumbered.  By starting out at dawn, I was in good position to be back in Flagstaff in time for a lunch.  It was time to get going, if I was going to make that happen.  

Early Start

From the parking lot, I crossed over one of the easier ski runs at the resort which was just a field of grass at this time of year.  Once on the other side, I entered the Coconino National Forest and officially made my way into the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

Yay, Another Wilderness Area!

The trail was pockmarked with rocks and boulders, and saw its share of roots and fallen trees, but it was fairly easy to navigate, for the most part.  It was just one switchback after the other, over and over again.  After a short while of this, I made my way up to the trail register and signed in.  If I wasn’t officially on the trail before, I was at this point.  

Trail Register (about 20 minutes into the hike)

Continuing on, there were many more switchbacks awaiting me.  Along the way though, the mountain began revealing its true nature.  For example, occasionally I would see blatant paths of destruction with downed trees strewn about like dropped toothpicks which were telltale signs of winter avalanches past.

Very Telling Landscape

At one point, I came across a boulder field which was entirely covered with boulders.  There was not a bare spot to be found, and the rocks clearly ran a few feet deep.  This was certainly an avalanche chute in the winter.    Luckily I was proceeding under fairer weather.  

Not a Fun Place to be in Winter

The switchbacks continued, but I clearly missed one of them.  All of a sudden, my hike turned into a steep scramble.  I was impressed by how quickly the conditions changed going off route.  I decided to gain as much elevation as I could, knowing that I was not too far from the ridgeline by this point.  Worst case, I would hit the ridgeline at a different spot.  Soon enough though, I found myself deposited back on the trail, so the situation sorted itself out after a good ten minutes or so.  I guess the lesson is to not to get too comfortable and pay attention to the route if you are going it alone, since it is mostly unsigned or unmarked.  

On Trail

Off Trail

I was above tree line now, and it was a very quick approach to the ridgeline.  The views are wonderful at this point, though there is still a bit of hiking to go in order to reach the summit.  

I'm Not Even at the Summit Yet -- What a View!  

One has two choices:  making a right will lead to the summit of Agassiz peak which is forbidden to visit when snow is not present and making a left will lead to the summit of Humphrey’s peak which was my present intent.  

Sign at the Ridgeline

Agassiz Peak is Very Tempting!  Alas, Another Day...

So I followed the meandering ridgeline towards the summit of Humphrey’s peak.  In the winter, this would have been straightforward (literally), short of the occasional cornice.  With no snow though, this meant dipping up and down from the ridgeline following one rocky path after another with switchbacks thrown in for added measure.  

First Stretch

I obliged and passed a couple of false summits, and finally I made it up the true summit.  None too soon either, as another hiker seemingly out of nowhere was on my heels with his dog arriving mere seconds later.  

False Summit

True Summit

I yielded the summit to the other hiker and his pooch, and made my way over to the summit register which was bolted just beyond the windbreak surrounding the summit sign.  I marked an entry highlighting my 41^st state highpoint – yay!  

Summit Register!

I then walked around a bit farther along the ridge and took in all of the surrounding beauty.  It was really incredible up there!  The narrow slice of real estate at such a high elevation yielded magnificent views in every direction.  I was able to see all of the other peaks of the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

The Varied Topography of Arizona

The Ridgeline that Just Won't Quit!  

Better yet though, the aspens were in bloom!  Swaths of yellow-orange leaves punctuated the otherwise evergreen landscape just adding to the beauty.  What a great time of the year to be here!

Gorgeous Aspens in Bloom!

The hiker soon parted, so I resumed my summit rituals by visiting the true summit properly and opting for a vanity shot with the summit sign.  I searched in vain for a USGS marker, but I did not see one.  I saw the remains of a summit bench which by this point was reduced to a plank.  I guess the weather can be a little unforgiving on the summit at times.  I continued to linger for a little longer than average, since this particular highpoint was surprisingly nice.  

The Easy Part:  Going Down!

I eventually brought the reverie to an end though and made my way back.  This was done in very short order.  Since nearly every step on the way up resulted in a net elevation gain, the way down was quite comfortable and relaxing.  I passed over the ridgeline quickly and began working my way down the mountain properly.  At this point, I began seeing all of the other would-be summiteers.  Most were friendly; some asked for summit details; one young lady towards the end though was seemingly threatened by my “hello” which I had been saying to all of the people that I passed, interchanged with “good morning”.  So it goes.  I soon made my way across the ski slope and back to my car.  

Spectacular End to a Wonderful Hike!

All in all, this was a great hike!  Up in 3.5 hours and down in 2, just in time for lunch no less.  Off to IHOP for some well-deserved pancakes…

Highpoint #40: California

The Highest Point in the Lower 48 States!!

After hiking to the highest point in Nevada, I went up to Mt. Shasta for my next climb.  Sadly, the top of Mt. Shasta is not the highest point in California though it is a spectacular climb in its own right.  The reason for the deviation was that I thought it would be a good opportunity to review my crevasse rescue skills and have another glacier climb under my belt in preparation for Denali (the highpoint of Alaska).  This is definitely something I need to start thinking about more seriously as I near the final stretch of states to highpoint. 

My Shasta climb consisted of spending four days on the Hotlum glacier which was technically challenging and wonderful -- it was a great summit for me!  My guide from SWS was very capable, and I just had a great experience out there.  With two summits in the bag and the technical climbing portion of the trip out of the way, I was feeling pretty good.  All that I needed to do now was just drive down to Lone Pine, CA for a hike up the Whitney trail to the top of Mt. Whitney to wrap this trip up.  Of course, the devil is in the details. 

Mt. Whitney is a beautiful mountain in its own right and worthy of a climb.  More than beauty, the mountain has other attractive features.  For one, its summit is the highest point in the lower 48 states.   Also, at an elevation of 14,505 feet, it is a California 14er, making it part of a coveted list among climbers.  For thru-hikers, the summit is the southern end of the John Muir Trail.  It is also nearby the High Sierras Trail.  More than that, it is simultaneously located in a National Park and a National Forest.  For all of these reasons and more, this mountain sees MANY would-be hikers; in fact, too many.  As such, a very strict permitting system is in place. 

The permit system is conducted as a lottery.  Back in February, I registered online for a selection of dates and passes (both overnight and day use only).  I crossed my fingers a few weeks later when they determined who was lucky enough to climb this year and who was not.  Certain particular dates saw literally hundreds of applications.  The result?  None of my selections was approved for a permit!  I was dumbfounded.  I avoided weekends, and I picked dates that were not so popular the year before (they have historical data on their website) and still no success.  Fortunately, I remained persistent.  A few days later, I was able to snag a date in late August that had just opened up on their website.  With a guaranteed permit, I cashed in my airline miles and booked a set of flights.  It is hard to believe that a day hike could take several months of planning, but that just shows how popular this mountain really is. 

Day-Use Permit (Overnight Permits are Blue)

Since I had a single day permit, I was required to pick it up the day before my hike at the Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitor Center, no later than noon.  I made the early morning drive down to Lone Pine, and I was able to secure my permit within a matter of minutes from the office.  I now had the rest of the day to kill, since my hike could not technically begin until midnight. 

The Trailhead:   Many Hours Before Midnight = Long Wait

The Trail Starts Off Gently...

After a quick lunch and a stop to pick up spare batteries for my headlamp, I drove up the Whitney Portal road.  Nearly every single parking space leading up to the trailhead was taken by hikers and climbers currently out on the mountain.   Fortunately, I was able to snag a fairly decent parking space that someone just left.  I still had most of the day to wait through, so I decided to better acquaint myself with my surroundings.  This mostly consisted of me verifying the location of the trailhead and visiting the excellent store located right next to it which has all of the last minute gear needs, souvenirs, and food that one could want.  I read for a while, had dinner at the store, and took a nap.

Something to Consider as Midnight Approaches

I woke up at 1am, prepared my daypack, and made my way to the trailhead for a 1:30am start.  I had a 22 mile hike (roundtrip) ahead of me with more than 6000 feet of elevation gain.  This was going to be a demanding day!

Hike is Underway!  Crossing Lone Pine Creek

Of course, the “day” portion of the hike was still a few hours off from this ungodly hour.  What I had before me was a hike by the light of my headlamp.  There were two hikers some distance ahead of me, and eventually I noticed a group of hikers some distance behind me.  Given the wide spacing, for all intents and purposes, I was hiking in solitude which was not something I was expecting with all of the demand to climb this mountain.  So a good tip for the would-be hiker, start earlier than everyone else!

The Only Thing to See at Night is the Signs

There was not much to see in the dark.  I just kept following the trail which persistently led upwards.  I crossed a couple of streams, made my way properly into the John Muir wilderness, and even negotiated a series of logs set up as balance beams.  There is nothing like a test of balance in the early hours of the night! 

Only Those With Balance May Pass

 

I finally made it into the Whitney zone.  I would need my permit from this point onward; though, as you might imagine, there was no one around to verify if I had a permit or not.  Sometimes it just comes down to the honor system with this stuff. 

Where's the Park Ranger?

From this point, I still could not make out much about the trail, though it did seem to be a bit rockier.  I also was making my way around very large rock features, and occasionally the “trail” was not so obvious.  A few times I would double back and try to see if the route I was on was slightly more plied than any of the alternatives.  I lost a little bit of time doing this, naturally, but that’s how it goes under the cover of night. 

I Can't Imagine the Labor to Build This Trail

I eventually made it to a large clearing.  The slope was noticeably gentler for a little while, and I passed by a lake and a motley group of tents (presumably the high camp).  On the other side of the lake, I reached the mountain range.  Now I began climbing up the side of the mountain via a feature known as the “99 Switchbacks”.  A well-named feature, it was.  Back and forth, back and forth, without relent, I made my way slowly up the mountain. 

What a View!

About a third of the way up, the sun began to rise.  The early light slowly draped the landscape before me, making the lake fully visible and prominently bringing into relief the sharp lines of the surrounding mountains.  As the foreground came into focus, the background of stars soon disappeared.  I managed to take a picture right at this transition point that really captured the beauty of the place that I was exploring. 

The Only Section of the Trail with "Railing"

When the sun rose, light flooded into every corner of the mountain range.  I could now see the challenge of what lied ahead for the first time.  Fortunately, I was most of the way up at this point, so it was not so overwhelming. 



Trail Crest!  Close, Yet Not So Close

I kept pushing onward without any breaks, and after the 99 switchbacks I found myself at the “Trail Crest”.  My elevation was 13,600’, and I was now entering Sequoia National Park.  At this point, I worked my way around the backside of the mountain.

View On the Other Side

Just to be cruel, the trail quickly loses a bit of elevation on this backside until one reaches a sign indicating that the summit is a mere 1.9 miles away. 

Sign Gives False Hope that One is Close to the Summit

Let me just say for the record that this is arguably the longest 1.9 miles I have ever covered in my life.  I wasn’t tired from the effort at this point, but making my way through this stretch did feel unending.  It was quite rocky and quite winding.  The circuitous route just kept updating my direction, so many times so, that I was no longer sure which peak around me was the true summit. 


 

Where is This Path Taking Me?

The Summit is Straight Ahead; the Path is Not

Continuing on, I did see the outline of the summit hut in the distance.  I trudged on more quickly and made my way closer and closer to the objective.  Of course, the path was not direct, and, sure enough, I found myself working around the backside of that peak as well before making my way up the final stretch to the summit. 

Final Approach to the Summit Hut

I walked past the summit hut, to a plaque commemorating the trail.  Amazingly, the entire trail was built in just two years! 

The Highest Trail in the United States

Just beyond the plaque, I found the USGS markers marking the highest point in the lower 48 states.  And just beyond that, I had the most magnificent views of my entire trip.  There were blue skies in every direction and not even the slightest trace of wind.  Wow!  After seven hours of effort, the landscape had changed dramatically.  I really basked in the grandeur of this place – it was just so beautiful!

Is There a Bad View Up Here?

I Think Not!

After the reverie, I got down to business.  I sought out the different geological markers.  There were two markers from 1928 with a simple line across the middle. 

USGS Benchmark Marker U43 (1928) 

USGS Benchmark Marker K72 (1928)

There was another marker from 1950 with the triangle in the middle (a benchmark marker).  Finally, I saw a 4^th marker that was all but destroyed. 

USGS Marker with Triangle (1950)

Yet, Another USGS Marker

I took the benchmark marker from 1950 as being the true highpoint since it was placed later in time, and I took a vanity shot beside it.  Why does this place have so many markers?

Vanity Shot at Summit Marker (One of Many Markers Apparently)

I also made my way around the summit hut, and I signed the register in front of it.  This was my 40^th state highpoint!  There were two doors to the hut, but only one of them is open.  The room inside is quite basic, and it just serves as emergency shelter for the hiker who perhaps did not plan so well. 

View Inside Summit Hut

This summit was not one that I was quick to leave.  After even more reflection and a proper food break, I steeled myself for the unending descent that lied before me.  Of course, now everything was quite a bit easier.  I was literally bounding down the trail, covering that endless section of 1.9 miles in no time at all.  Sure enough though, I had one uphill section to contend with to reach the trail crest.  From there, I was nearly skipping down the 99 switchbacks.  Amazingly though, my right boot found one piece of ice that was still remaining, and I nearly took a spill.  So even in August, you still must be mindful of the conditions. 

On the Descent, Past the Switchbacks and the Lakes

I made my way past the lake and down into the valley.  The sun was becoming intense, so I started shedding some layers.  What I was amazed by though was just how different this trail seemed in daylight.  The path definitely seemed more rugged now, and the landscape was less featured than I expected.  It looked like a hard slog, but, again, I was descending at this point, so the hard part was truly behind me. 

I Missed Some Great Stuff Hiking Up in the Dark

I finally made it back to the trailhead at 3pm.  I made my way over to the store again and picked up a t-shirt and a coffee mug to properly commemorate the trip.  I walked down to the car, deposited my pack, took off my boots, and I already had someone waiting to park in my parking space.  This place is popular!  I drove slowly down the Whitney Portal road to the town of Lone Pine reflecting on just how amazing this hike was!  What a memorable day and it could not have been more perfect.  This strange hobby of mine is really taking me to some amazing places.  I like that.   With this trip over and 3 summits in the bag, the question is where I should travel to next?