Highpoint #41: Arizona

The Highest Point in Arizona!

I was very fortunate to put together not one, but two big highpointing trips this summer covering much of the upper Midwest as well as some of the western states.  I had fully taken advantage of my window of good weather, and I just assumed that would be the end of my adventures until next summer.  However, work got in the way, as it usually does, but this time in a good way.  I would have to fly to Tucson to give a couple of presentations.  Arizona, you say?  That sounds wonderful!  I envisioned the highpointing opportunities immediately…

Of course, Tucson is located in the wrong side of the state for my purposes.  Indeed, the highest point in Arizona is Humphrey’s Peak located next to a ski resort (who knew there was skiing in Arizona?) just outside of Flagstaff.  It is a good 4-hour drive away.  Luckily, I had a great deal of practice driving to many of the other highpoints in the country, so 4 hours distance might as well be down the street as far as I am concerned.  This was going to be easy.  So the trip was set.   

Once I was in Arizona, I thought about the practicalities of the climb.  To optimize my chances, I decided to drive up to Flagstaff at night and settle into the hiker’s parking lot intending for an early morning start.  Doing just that, I was surprised there was an RV already parked there when I arrived.  Nonetheless, I parked some distance away, reclined the seat, and awaited the break of dawn.  My sleep was interrupted much later in the night though by a couple of visitors.  Apparently the hiker’s lot is also a forward operating base for hunters as well.  There was a lot of orange and a lot of noise, but they eventually left.  With most of the night over by this point, I started stirring to prepare my daypack.  The hike was going to be pretty straightforward.  To the top and back, it is 9.6 miles roundtrip, and the path is largely unencumbered.  By starting out at dawn, I was in good position to be back in Flagstaff in time for a lunch.  It was time to get going, if I was going to make that happen.  

Early Start

From the parking lot, I crossed over one of the easier ski runs at the resort which was just a field of grass at this time of year.  Once on the other side, I entered the Coconino National Forest and officially made my way into the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

Yay, Another Wilderness Area!

The trail was pockmarked with rocks and boulders, and saw its share of roots and fallen trees, but it was fairly easy to navigate, for the most part.  It was just one switchback after the other, over and over again.  After a short while of this, I made my way up to the trail register and signed in.  If I wasn’t officially on the trail before, I was at this point.  

Trail Register (about 20 minutes into the hike)

Continuing on, there were many more switchbacks awaiting me.  Along the way though, the mountain began revealing its true nature.  For example, occasionally I would see blatant paths of destruction with downed trees strewn about like dropped toothpicks which were telltale signs of winter avalanches past.

Very Telling Landscape

At one point, I came across a boulder field which was entirely covered with boulders.  There was not a bare spot to be found, and the rocks clearly ran a few feet deep.  This was certainly an avalanche chute in the winter.    Luckily I was proceeding under fairer weather.  

Not a Fun Place to be in Winter

The switchbacks continued, but I clearly missed one of them.  All of a sudden, my hike turned into a steep scramble.  I was impressed by how quickly the conditions changed going off route.  I decided to gain as much elevation as I could, knowing that I was not too far from the ridgeline by this point.  Worst case, I would hit the ridgeline at a different spot.  Soon enough though, I found myself deposited back on the trail, so the situation sorted itself out after a good ten minutes or so.  I guess the lesson is to not to get too comfortable and pay attention to the route if you are going it alone, since it is mostly unsigned or unmarked.  

On Trail

Off Trail

I was above tree line now, and it was a very quick approach to the ridgeline.  The views are wonderful at this point, though there is still a bit of hiking to go in order to reach the summit.  

I'm Not Even at the Summit Yet -- What a View!  

One has two choices:  making a right will lead to the summit of Agassiz peak which is forbidden to visit when snow is not present and making a left will lead to the summit of Humphrey’s peak which was my present intent.  

Sign at the Ridgeline

Agassiz Peak is Very Tempting!  Alas, Another Day...

So I followed the meandering ridgeline towards the summit of Humphrey’s peak.  In the winter, this would have been straightforward (literally), short of the occasional cornice.  With no snow though, this meant dipping up and down from the ridgeline following one rocky path after another with switchbacks thrown in for added measure.  

First Stretch

I obliged and passed a couple of false summits, and finally I made it up the true summit.  None too soon either, as another hiker seemingly out of nowhere was on my heels with his dog arriving mere seconds later.  

False Summit

True Summit

I yielded the summit to the other hiker and his pooch, and made my way over to the summit register which was bolted just beyond the windbreak surrounding the summit sign.  I marked an entry highlighting my 41^st state highpoint – yay!  

Summit Register!

I then walked around a bit farther along the ridge and took in all of the surrounding beauty.  It was really incredible up there!  The narrow slice of real estate at such a high elevation yielded magnificent views in every direction.  I was able to see all of the other peaks of the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

The Varied Topography of Arizona

The Ridgeline that Just Won't Quit!  

Better yet though, the aspens were in bloom!  Swaths of yellow-orange leaves punctuated the otherwise evergreen landscape just adding to the beauty.  What a great time of the year to be here!

Gorgeous Aspens in Bloom!

The hiker soon parted, so I resumed my summit rituals by visiting the true summit properly and opting for a vanity shot with the summit sign.  I searched in vain for a USGS marker, but I did not see one.  I saw the remains of a summit bench which by this point was reduced to a plank.  I guess the weather can be a little unforgiving on the summit at times.  I continued to linger for a little longer than average, since this particular highpoint was surprisingly nice.  

The Easy Part:  Going Down!

I eventually brought the reverie to an end though and made my way back.  This was done in very short order.  Since nearly every step on the way up resulted in a net elevation gain, the way down was quite comfortable and relaxing.  I passed over the ridgeline quickly and began working my way down the mountain properly.  At this point, I began seeing all of the other would-be summiteers.  Most were friendly; some asked for summit details; one young lady towards the end though was seemingly threatened by my “hello” which I had been saying to all of the people that I passed, interchanged with “good morning”.  So it goes.  I soon made my way across the ski slope and back to my car.  

Spectacular End to a Wonderful Hike!

All in all, this was a great hike!  Up in 3.5 hours and down in 2, just in time for lunch no less.  Off to IHOP for some well-deserved pancakes…