Highpoint #42: New Mexico

The Highest Point in New Mexico!

The highest point in New Mexico is the summit of Wheeler Peak, a 13,161’ mountain located in the Taos ski valley.  It is not one of ski runs, but it is conveniently close to two of the trails leading out of the ski resort.  

I had occasion to try my hand at the mountain during my cross country road trip two winters ago where I picked up most of the southern highpoints.  I took the Bull of the Woods trail (the recommended way in the winter) and snowshoed my way up to the Bull of the Woods pasture.  It was 2 miles of beautiful trail that was well-packed from regular snowmobile use.  Unfortunately for me, from the pasture onward, there was only fresh trail.  A recent blizzard that just passed through the area meant post-holing in waist-deep and at times shoulder-deep snow, not to mention navigating cornices all along the summit ridge.  It became clear very quickly that I was not going to be able to negotiate 5.5 miles of this type of terrain one-way to gain the summit in the course of a short winter day.  I had to bail on the effort, enjoy the good snowshoeing, and vow to come back another day.  Luckily, another day arrived!

Indeed, arriving in the Taos ski valley this time in early fall meant that I would be climbing under an entirely different set of circumstances.  There would not be a single snowflake in sight, and either trail to the summit would be negotiable from start to finish with nary a hindrance.  Being a sucker for an alpine start, I arrived in the hiker lot behind the Bavarian restaurant after midnight and tucked in for the night with the hope of hitting the Williams Lake trail at the break of dawn.  

The Williams Lake trail is avalanche prone in the winter making it pretty much a no-go during the season, save for the AIARE savvy.  Any other time of the year though, it is the shortest way to the summit by quite a bit of distance, 6.2 miles instead of 15 miles roundtrip.  It is also the trail of choice for the climber who has to catch a flight afterwards several hundred miles away.  I never seem to have a lot time to do this stuff. 

Waking up to my alarm, I prepared my daypack and set off.  Passing by the kiosk at the trailhead I saw the sign that said “No Overnight Camping Allowed in Hiker Parking”.  Yikes!  I totally did not see that sign in the dark of night.  Luckily I passed through unscathed.  

Kiosk in the Hiker's Parking Lot

I ventured on past the kiosk, uncertain of how this trail was going to unfold.  Fortunately, the trail could not have been better marked.  There were quite a few “Williams Lake Trail” signs dutifully pointing the way to the proper trailhead.  

You Really Can't Get Lost on this Hike

For a bit of time, I just followed a dirt road that wound its way for a bit of distance through the remainder of the ski resort, before I arrived at the trailhead.  

The Official Trailhead

The trail properly was surprisingly gentle.  It was the most pristine mountain trail that I have ever seen.  It was as though nearly every rock was taken out.  It was a trail runner’s dream.  I was dumbfounded by the lack of difficulty.  I was able to lope along with ease.  

Trail Split

After nearly two miles of this, I saw a sign for the trail split.  Several years ago, one would continue along to Williams Lake and proceed to scramble up a very long scree slope to the summit.  However, in recent years a trail was built that switchbacks its way to the summit obviating the need for scrambling skills altogether.  Indeed, I made a left onto the “Wheeler Summit” trail, and I found the conditions just as easy as they were before, if not easier!  

Wheeler Peak Trail -- Notice How Smooth It Is!

I soon made my way around to a prominent hillside and gently gained elevation with each rising pass.  For hiking, this as good as it gets:  easy effort in exchange for amazing views all around.  

Much of the Trail Looks Like This

Summit Coming into View Before Clouds Lifted

One hillside gave way to another, and the trail meandered making its way around to an avalanche chute which was notable because it was the only place along the trail that was filled with rocks.  At this point, the real elevation gain began.  Mind you, it was still just one switchback after the other, but the steepness became more pronounced.  

Almost at the Summit Ridge

Very soon though, I found myself deposited on the summit ridge before a large rock cairn.  Making a right, I only needed to follow the ridge a short distance to the summit.  This was quite a bit of fun!  Up and over a false summit, I continued along the ridge as it picked up a just a little more in the way of elevation, and before I knew it, I was on the top of Wheeler Peak!  

False Summit

True Summit Lies Ahead

I made my way over first to the summit monument.  It is a curious creation really.  There is a monolith of mortared stone adorned on top with a summit plaque recognizing the spot as the highest point in New Mexico.  The writing on the plaque goes on to give some background on the “Wheeler” of Wheeler Peak for whom the mountain is named.  Inserted in the middle of this structure is a metal tube that juts out prominently giving the structure the overall look of a cannon.  

Summit Monument

The metal tube doubles as a summit register.  Indeed, after some considerable unwinding of the exterior cap, I found the tube jam-packed with summit logs.  It was really ridiculous.  All of the notebooks were filled with entries extending more than a year into the past.  In addition to the notebooks, loose leaf paper was added to the mix containing yet more entries.  I was resigned to make an entry on said paper.  Whoever maintains the site needs take possession of all of these old notebooks and replace them with a couple of new ones.  The time has come.  

The Messiest Summit Register Yet!

Just beyond the summit register, there was a large windbreak.  I climbed to the top of it and enjoyed the view.  The narrow ridge drops off steeply on either side, and beyond, in the distance, there are quite a number of peaks to behold.  The view is dramatic and especially engaging.  With no clouds and little to no wind, the conditions were perfect to hang out for a while and just enjoy it.  

View from the Top!

And to be complete, along the windbreak I found a USGS “Reference Mark” affixed to one of the stones.  It was the only such marker that I was able to locate along the summit area.  I took this to be the true summit and did the usual vanity shot thing.

USGS Reference Mark for Wheeler Peak

Vanity Shot with USGS Marker

After finishing all of these summit rituals, I made my way down the mountain.  This had to have been the easiest descent ever for me.  Nonetheless, I tried to lower my throttle so to speak so that I might still enjoy all of the gorgeous views.  It also helped that I could say “good morning” to all of the other hikers on the way up the mountain.  Some asked for summit details or simply inquired as to how early I had left to be already on my return.  I was impressed by just how many people were on their way up the mountain.  I easily passed dozens of people.  Not to be out done though, I even saw a cougar!  There was a warning sign about cougars at the kiosk in the hiker’s parking lot, but even then I would not have expected to see one with all of the people on the trail.  Sure enough though, I saw the cougar just beyond one of the switchbacks in the off-trail area making his way to higher ground.  We made eye contact, but I was not quick enough to take a photo.  Darn!  I guess that warning is one to take seriously.  

I managed to return to my car by 11am, an hour earlier than I was expecting, giving me a bit of a cushion in my long journey home.  Not bad at all.

Overall, I would rate this as an exceptional hike that is surprisingly accessible to just about anyone with a marginal level of fitness.  That is remarkable, really.  It is very rare that a high-altitude mountain can be so accessible, and the views are wonderful all around.  This is a good place to bring the whole family along.