Highpoint #42: New Mexico

The Highest Point in New Mexico!

The highest point in New Mexico is the summit of Wheeler Peak, a 13,161’ mountain located in the Taos ski valley.  It is not one of ski runs, but it is conveniently close to two of the trails leading out of the ski resort.  

I had occasion to try my hand at the mountain during my cross country road trip two winters ago where I picked up most of the southern highpoints.  I took the Bull of the Woods trail (the recommended way in the winter) and snowshoed my way up to the Bull of the Woods pasture.  It was 2 miles of beautiful trail that was well-packed from regular snowmobile use.  Unfortunately for me, from the pasture onward, there was only fresh trail.  A recent blizzard that just passed through the area meant post-holing in waist-deep and at times shoulder-deep snow, not to mention navigating cornices all along the summit ridge.  It became clear very quickly that I was not going to be able to negotiate 5.5 miles of this type of terrain one-way to gain the summit in the course of a short winter day.  I had to bail on the effort, enjoy the good snowshoeing, and vow to come back another day.  Luckily, another day arrived!

Indeed, arriving in the Taos ski valley this time in early fall meant that I would be climbing under an entirely different set of circumstances.  There would not be a single snowflake in sight, and either trail to the summit would be negotiable from start to finish with nary a hindrance.  Being a sucker for an alpine start, I arrived in the hiker lot behind the Bavarian restaurant after midnight and tucked in for the night with the hope of hitting the Williams Lake trail at the break of dawn.  

The Williams Lake trail is avalanche prone in the winter making it pretty much a no-go during the season, save for the AIARE savvy.  Any other time of the year though, it is the shortest way to the summit by quite a bit of distance, 6.2 miles instead of 15 miles roundtrip.  It is also the trail of choice for the climber who has to catch a flight afterwards several hundred miles away.  I never seem to have a lot time to do this stuff. 

Waking up to my alarm, I prepared my daypack and set off.  Passing by the kiosk at the trailhead I saw the sign that said “No Overnight Camping Allowed in Hiker Parking”.  Yikes!  I totally did not see that sign in the dark of night.  Luckily I passed through unscathed.  

Kiosk in the Hiker's Parking Lot

I ventured on past the kiosk, uncertain of how this trail was going to unfold.  Fortunately, the trail could not have been better marked.  There were quite a few “Williams Lake Trail” signs dutifully pointing the way to the proper trailhead.  

You Really Can't Get Lost on this Hike

For a bit of time, I just followed a dirt road that wound its way for a bit of distance through the remainder of the ski resort, before I arrived at the trailhead.  

The Official Trailhead

The trail properly was surprisingly gentle.  It was the most pristine mountain trail that I have ever seen.  It was as though nearly every rock was taken out.  It was a trail runner’s dream.  I was dumbfounded by the lack of difficulty.  I was able to lope along with ease.  

Trail Split

After nearly two miles of this, I saw a sign for the trail split.  Several years ago, one would continue along to Williams Lake and proceed to scramble up a very long scree slope to the summit.  However, in recent years a trail was built that switchbacks its way to the summit obviating the need for scrambling skills altogether.  Indeed, I made a left onto the “Wheeler Summit” trail, and I found the conditions just as easy as they were before, if not easier!  

Wheeler Peak Trail -- Notice How Smooth It Is!

I soon made my way around to a prominent hillside and gently gained elevation with each rising pass.  For hiking, this as good as it gets:  easy effort in exchange for amazing views all around.  

Much of the Trail Looks Like This

Summit Coming into View Before Clouds Lifted

One hillside gave way to another, and the trail meandered making its way around to an avalanche chute which was notable because it was the only place along the trail that was filled with rocks.  At this point, the real elevation gain began.  Mind you, it was still just one switchback after the other, but the steepness became more pronounced.  

Almost at the Summit Ridge

Very soon though, I found myself deposited on the summit ridge before a large rock cairn.  Making a right, I only needed to follow the ridge a short distance to the summit.  This was quite a bit of fun!  Up and over a false summit, I continued along the ridge as it picked up a just a little more in the way of elevation, and before I knew it, I was on the top of Wheeler Peak!  

False Summit

True Summit Lies Ahead

I made my way over first to the summit monument.  It is a curious creation really.  There is a monolith of mortared stone adorned on top with a summit plaque recognizing the spot as the highest point in New Mexico.  The writing on the plaque goes on to give some background on the “Wheeler” of Wheeler Peak for whom the mountain is named.  Inserted in the middle of this structure is a metal tube that juts out prominently giving the structure the overall look of a cannon.  

Summit Monument

The metal tube doubles as a summit register.  Indeed, after some considerable unwinding of the exterior cap, I found the tube jam-packed with summit logs.  It was really ridiculous.  All of the notebooks were filled with entries extending more than a year into the past.  In addition to the notebooks, loose leaf paper was added to the mix containing yet more entries.  I was resigned to make an entry on said paper.  Whoever maintains the site needs take possession of all of these old notebooks and replace them with a couple of new ones.  The time has come.  

The Messiest Summit Register Yet!

Just beyond the summit register, there was a large windbreak.  I climbed to the top of it and enjoyed the view.  The narrow ridge drops off steeply on either side, and beyond, in the distance, there are quite a number of peaks to behold.  The view is dramatic and especially engaging.  With no clouds and little to no wind, the conditions were perfect to hang out for a while and just enjoy it.  

View from the Top!

And to be complete, along the windbreak I found a USGS “Reference Mark” affixed to one of the stones.  It was the only such marker that I was able to locate along the summit area.  I took this to be the true summit and did the usual vanity shot thing.

USGS Reference Mark for Wheeler Peak

Vanity Shot with USGS Marker

After finishing all of these summit rituals, I made my way down the mountain.  This had to have been the easiest descent ever for me.  Nonetheless, I tried to lower my throttle so to speak so that I might still enjoy all of the gorgeous views.  It also helped that I could say “good morning” to all of the other hikers on the way up the mountain.  Some asked for summit details or simply inquired as to how early I had left to be already on my return.  I was impressed by just how many people were on their way up the mountain.  I easily passed dozens of people.  Not to be out done though, I even saw a cougar!  There was a warning sign about cougars at the kiosk in the hiker’s parking lot, but even then I would not have expected to see one with all of the people on the trail.  Sure enough though, I saw the cougar just beyond one of the switchbacks in the off-trail area making his way to higher ground.  We made eye contact, but I was not quick enough to take a photo.  Darn!  I guess that warning is one to take seriously.  

I managed to return to my car by 11am, an hour earlier than I was expecting, giving me a bit of a cushion in my long journey home.  Not bad at all.

Overall, I would rate this as an exceptional hike that is surprisingly accessible to just about anyone with a marginal level of fitness.  That is remarkable, really.  It is very rare that a high-altitude mountain can be so accessible, and the views are wonderful all around.  This is a good place to bring the whole family along.

      

    

Highpoint #41: Arizona

The Highest Point in Arizona!

I was very fortunate to put together not one, but two big highpointing trips this summer covering much of the upper Midwest as well as some of the western states.  I had fully taken advantage of my window of good weather, and I just assumed that would be the end of my adventures until next summer.  However, work got in the way, as it usually does, but this time in a good way.  I would have to fly to Tucson to give a couple of presentations.  Arizona, you say?  That sounds wonderful!  I envisioned the highpointing opportunities immediately…

Of course, Tucson is located in the wrong side of the state for my purposes.  Indeed, the highest point in Arizona is Humphrey’s Peak located next to a ski resort (who knew there was skiing in Arizona?) just outside of Flagstaff.  It is a good 4-hour drive away.  Luckily, I had a great deal of practice driving to many of the other highpoints in the country, so 4 hours distance might as well be down the street as far as I am concerned.  This was going to be easy.  So the trip was set.   

Once I was in Arizona, I thought about the practicalities of the climb.  To optimize my chances, I decided to drive up to Flagstaff at night and settle into the hiker’s parking lot intending for an early morning start.  Doing just that, I was surprised there was an RV already parked there when I arrived.  Nonetheless, I parked some distance away, reclined the seat, and awaited the break of dawn.  My sleep was interrupted much later in the night though by a couple of visitors.  Apparently the hiker’s lot is also a forward operating base for hunters as well.  There was a lot of orange and a lot of noise, but they eventually left.  With most of the night over by this point, I started stirring to prepare my daypack.  The hike was going to be pretty straightforward.  To the top and back, it is 9.6 miles roundtrip, and the path is largely unencumbered.  By starting out at dawn, I was in good position to be back in Flagstaff in time for a lunch.  It was time to get going, if I was going to make that happen.  

Early Start

From the parking lot, I crossed over one of the easier ski runs at the resort which was just a field of grass at this time of year.  Once on the other side, I entered the Coconino National Forest and officially made my way into the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

Yay, Another Wilderness Area!

The trail was pockmarked with rocks and boulders, and saw its share of roots and fallen trees, but it was fairly easy to navigate, for the most part.  It was just one switchback after the other, over and over again.  After a short while of this, I made my way up to the trail register and signed in.  If I wasn’t officially on the trail before, I was at this point.  

Trail Register (about 20 minutes into the hike)

Continuing on, there were many more switchbacks awaiting me.  Along the way though, the mountain began revealing its true nature.  For example, occasionally I would see blatant paths of destruction with downed trees strewn about like dropped toothpicks which were telltale signs of winter avalanches past.

Very Telling Landscape

At one point, I came across a boulder field which was entirely covered with boulders.  There was not a bare spot to be found, and the rocks clearly ran a few feet deep.  This was certainly an avalanche chute in the winter.    Luckily I was proceeding under fairer weather.  

Not a Fun Place to be in Winter

The switchbacks continued, but I clearly missed one of them.  All of a sudden, my hike turned into a steep scramble.  I was impressed by how quickly the conditions changed going off route.  I decided to gain as much elevation as I could, knowing that I was not too far from the ridgeline by this point.  Worst case, I would hit the ridgeline at a different spot.  Soon enough though, I found myself deposited back on the trail, so the situation sorted itself out after a good ten minutes or so.  I guess the lesson is to not to get too comfortable and pay attention to the route if you are going it alone, since it is mostly unsigned or unmarked.  

On Trail

Off Trail

I was above tree line now, and it was a very quick approach to the ridgeline.  The views are wonderful at this point, though there is still a bit of hiking to go in order to reach the summit.  

I'm Not Even at the Summit Yet -- What a View!  

One has two choices:  making a right will lead to the summit of Agassiz peak which is forbidden to visit when snow is not present and making a left will lead to the summit of Humphrey’s peak which was my present intent.  

Sign at the Ridgeline

Agassiz Peak is Very Tempting!  Alas, Another Day...

So I followed the meandering ridgeline towards the summit of Humphrey’s peak.  In the winter, this would have been straightforward (literally), short of the occasional cornice.  With no snow though, this meant dipping up and down from the ridgeline following one rocky path after another with switchbacks thrown in for added measure.  

First Stretch

I obliged and passed a couple of false summits, and finally I made it up the true summit.  None too soon either, as another hiker seemingly out of nowhere was on my heels with his dog arriving mere seconds later.  

False Summit

True Summit

I yielded the summit to the other hiker and his pooch, and made my way over to the summit register which was bolted just beyond the windbreak surrounding the summit sign.  I marked an entry highlighting my 41^st state highpoint – yay!  

Summit Register!

I then walked around a bit farther along the ridge and took in all of the surrounding beauty.  It was really incredible up there!  The narrow slice of real estate at such a high elevation yielded magnificent views in every direction.  I was able to see all of the other peaks of the “Kachina Peaks Wilderness”.  

The Varied Topography of Arizona

The Ridgeline that Just Won't Quit!  

Better yet though, the aspens were in bloom!  Swaths of yellow-orange leaves punctuated the otherwise evergreen landscape just adding to the beauty.  What a great time of the year to be here!

Gorgeous Aspens in Bloom!

The hiker soon parted, so I resumed my summit rituals by visiting the true summit properly and opting for a vanity shot with the summit sign.  I searched in vain for a USGS marker, but I did not see one.  I saw the remains of a summit bench which by this point was reduced to a plank.  I guess the weather can be a little unforgiving on the summit at times.  I continued to linger for a little longer than average, since this particular highpoint was surprisingly nice.  

The Easy Part:  Going Down!

I eventually brought the reverie to an end though and made my way back.  This was done in very short order.  Since nearly every step on the way up resulted in a net elevation gain, the way down was quite comfortable and relaxing.  I passed over the ridgeline quickly and began working my way down the mountain properly.  At this point, I began seeing all of the other would-be summiteers.  Most were friendly; some asked for summit details; one young lady towards the end though was seemingly threatened by my “hello” which I had been saying to all of the people that I passed, interchanged with “good morning”.  So it goes.  I soon made my way across the ski slope and back to my car.  

Spectacular End to a Wonderful Hike!

All in all, this was a great hike!  Up in 3.5 hours and down in 2, just in time for lunch no less.  Off to IHOP for some well-deserved pancakes…